The walk to the upper town is enchanting. A winding 400-step staircase leads up to it, flanked by neoclassical houses from the 18th and 19th centuries, middle-class residences with pastel, ochre or yellow facades and windows highlighted in brown. If you make the climb in the heat of the day, there are a few good tavernas waiting for you at the entrance to the upper town. The old town then forms a maze of quiet, light streets lined with more modest houses, either abandoned or now second homes.