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Steven Klein Nijenhuis's commitment to sustainability is apparent as soon as you enter his restaurant. He no longer serves dairy, beef or pork; instead, he lays the focus squarely on vegetables and fruit. His creativity and penchant for working with Asian ingredients make for dishes that are full of surprises and frequently have an unusual umami twist. Techniques such as pickling and the subtle use of seasonings such as sambal give local ingredients an extra dimension. He incorporates locally foraged lion's mane mushroom, for instance, into an intensely flavoursome dish with onion dashi, fermented black garlic and apple, crispy potato and dried leek powder. The chef is a real beer lover, so it is well worth perusing the beer menu to find the perfect beverage accompaniment. This stylish listed building (1735), with its grand chandelier, exudes the atmosphere of an inviting inn. The cosy lounge is the perfect place for a digestif or coffee by the fire. Should you wish to extend your stay, there are lovely guestrooms available.