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Paradise for diners seeking a culinary adventure, this dining room flaunts a pleasing aura. Service is prompt and tables turn quickly, so those in a rush should come at lunch. It's no wonder that crowds are the norm at peak hour, as meals have been known to render palates smitten, thanks to the likes of fiery oils, funky offal and numbing chilies. Yet there is restraint, with ingredients enhanced by a none-too-over smoky heat.

From the menu's creative lingo to a host of familiar items, few will have tasted such bold and perfectly calibrated flavors. The “big mouth” ginger frog in a chili-soaked broth, for instance, is an extraordinary start; while mapo tofu, cold noodles and other myriad preparations go well beyond the usual renditions.