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Upstream from Amboise, on the south bank of the Loire, this medieval castle, remodelled during the Renaissance, catches the eye with its two massive towers. The building presides peacefully over vast formal grounds, where the art of living, Loire style, is alive and well. The orangery, part of which is built into the rock of the hillside, is oh-so elegant, and on sunny days it is a real treat to sit on the pleasant terrace looking out onto the gardens. Chef Arnaud Philippon's cuisine flirts with the zeitgeist: toasted white asparagus, nasturtiums and egg yolk sauce; pan-roasted blue lobster, chickpeas from the Loches area, buckwheat and blackcurrant shoots; hot soufflé with Touraine blackcurrants and fresh blackcurrant sorbet. Delicate execution, balanced flavours, ingredients sourced from local producers: this is château life at its best.