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With such a surname, the Rosiers could well have specialised in roses rather than food. Instead of which, the first woman Best Craftsperson of France (in 2007), assisted by her spouse, conjures up enticingly unencumbered food. Even though their establishment has retained its characteristic Basque exterior, the interior sports a resolutely modern vibe, with stripped back walls, wooden floors and round designer-inspired tables. Our virtuoso never flaunts her technique, seeking rather to coax the taste and flavour out of first-class local produce, wild fish and shrimps and farm-reared poultry and squab, in particular. Andrée Rosier also enjoys jazzing up her dishes with the occasional dash of exoticism: from lemongrass and nori seaweed to ginger and lemon preserves. The Rosiers also manage two restaurants in Japan, which may well explain this predilection…