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Guillaume Viala, who had planned on a career in science, swapped his test tubes and beakers for a chopping board and a knife. This Aveyron lad switched to catering after spending three years at Michel Bras. Since then, he and his sommelière wife have thrown themselves body and soul into this chic rustic inn that commands a priceless view of the grandiose natural amphitheatre of the ‘Trou de Bozouls’. Both nurture a contagious enthusiasm for traditional farming methods and wines from small winegrowers. Their squid from the Golfe du Lion slowly braised in a spicy jus, with smoked charlotte potatoes and chickpeas, dandelions and rocket leaves is a model of deceptive, almost childlike simplicity in which everyday ingredients are underlined thanks to consummate skill.