Following its move to the other side of the street, La Vieille Tour has been renamed Granica. In this new space, Alexis Letellier continues to regale diners with well-crafted, contemporary cuisine. Made using top-notch ingredients, and with the odd Asian note, his dishes keep pace with the seasons. Examples include crisp beetroot ravioli, fresh goat's cheese mousse and matured beef tartare; breast of duckling, smoked then grilled to crisp the skin, braised fennel and an olive jus. Delicate flavours, character and meticulous plating: what's not to like? Front of house, sommelier Alice Letellier greets guests cheerfully and provides sound wine recommendations.