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This luxury hotel-restaurant, in a contemporary building of light-coloured stone, hugs the slopes of the Champagne vineyards. The interior is devoted to champagne (note the gilded ceiling with a slight patina, monumental chandelier with 36 amber-coloured blown-glass orbs). There is also a nod to Napoleon Bonaparte (a bust presides over the room), as he is said to have stopped off here when it was a coaching inn. Chef Paolo Boscaro has put his own stamp on the kitchen. The airy gnocchi with pecorino pepato and saffron, sage cream and candied citrus fruits border on perfection; the turbot meunière with celery, rhubarb, young broad beans and a champagne sauce flavoured with lovage is also testament to his great talent. The desserts are fresh, light and modern: think fresh raspberries, asparagus ice cream, raspberry condiment and olive oil.