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Fans have been clamoring for the dinner plates at this West Randolph mainstay for more than a decade—and now that lunch is on the menu, it’s official: Avec is a non-stop hangout. It’s a fun vibe, as diners are tightly packed at a long counter with communal seats in the chic wood plank-encased room; servers do a good job attending to the crowd.

Mediterranean flavors factor prominently in the kitchen’s stimulating creations, like a kale and carrot salad dressed with delightfully herbaceous and spicy green harissa as well as sunflower seeds for crunch. A thick slice of excellent whole grain bread spread with walnut-beet muhamarra is the foundation of an open-faced roasted salmon sandwich. Other delights—there are many—come and go with the seasons.