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Aside from the framed samurai swords and black dragon painting, it’s clear that this minimally dressed sushiya subscribes to the whisper-don’t-scream school of thought. That spirit extends to the menu, where there is no sign of fusion. Surely that is why a largely Japanese clientele packs this place. Sushi is available à la carte, but the seasonal omakase features fish served in rapid-fire succession. Hirame, with a touch of freshly grated yuzu zest, is a delicious start. Then it’s grouper with pickled daikon, which may be tailed by velvety kanpachi or shima aji with a dab of minced ginger. Spice heads will devour the red snapper with stir-fried shishito peppers.

In keeping with its no fuss-attitude, they don't take reservations, so be sure to plan ahead.