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Tōya is a famous volcanic lake in northern Japan, in the heart of the Shikotsu-Tōya nature reserve. In the eyes of youthful globetrotting chef, Loïc Villemin, this region is something of a gastronomic Eden where wild fish, plants and herbs thrive and high-quality fruit and vegetables are grown. All of which has inspired this Zen-styled restaurant (overlooking a golf course) with a hip ‘natural’ slant! Our aspiring Buddhist monk chef has spent retreats in the top gourmet sanctuaries of France, notably with Jean-Georges Klein, Nicolas Le Bec, Bernard Loiseau and Arnaud Lallement. His love of fine produce is particularly visible in the mystery, weekly-changing menu. Cutting-edge skill and creativity are apparent in the likes of ikejime trout from Abreschviller, with textures of carrot, ginger and caraway. Unmissable.