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Fire and fermentation are key at Atelier Gist, a converted barn with floor-to-ceiling windows that afford views of the surrounding fields. Seated at a counter overlooking the open kitchen, diners can watch chef Jason work his magic at the barbecue and charcoal-fired oven. He elevates the robust barbecue flavours with bursts of citrus and Japanese seasonings. For instance, he grills venison fillet over the binchotan and then seasons it with koji. A rich beef jus made from the carcass, red cabbage and a delicate beetroot and fig cream bring out the inherent quality of these premium ingredients. The recommended natural wines and house-made kombucha takes this symphony of flavours to new heights.