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This edifice on the banks of the Yonne is superlative! Founded by Marie Lorain in 1945, the establishment rose to fame in the hands of her son, Michel, and then her grandson, Jean-Michel. This modest, dedicated chef has now passed the baton on to his nephew, Alexandre Bondoux. Regulars can rest assured that the signature dishes are going nowhere (special Gillardeau oysters in an "ocean terrine", homemade black pudding); nor are the flashes of inspiration (caviar-flavoured île flottante; Crisenon char with peas and almonds). A symphony of flavours, high-flying craftsmanship and seasoning in an exquisite gourmet repertory, underscored by slick service.