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Humble doesn’t even begin to describe this open-air restaurant, which has no walls and is seemingly built out of corrugated metal. But what comes out of the kitchen is anything but simple. In quiet Lincoln Heights, find a limited menu that excels in tender, stewed meats and soulful soups. The chef mines the memories of his hometown of Jalisco with carne en su jugo, a superb, meaty soup made from tomatillos, bacon, pinto beans and beef. Birria en consommé is another warming, brothy hit, packing in more delicacy and nuance than the typical effort. There must be tacos, of course, and tortillas are properly made in-house. We’re partial to the barbacoa doused in a fiery tomato salsa. All the while, a small staff welcomes you with infectious enthusiasm.