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The carnivorous heart of Nancy Silverton’s “Mozzaplex” is as strong as ever. A modern Italian take on the old-school steakhouse, the restaurant boasts a steady menu of classics that seem to have only gotten better with age. Is there a better beginning than the indulgently cheesy focaccia di recco? Is there a chicken more compelling than the 24-hour brined and marinated pollo alla diavola? The team makes the most of smoke and live fire, as big proteins pass through the wood-burning oven. Indeed, this is hearty cooking that is seasoned boldly and keenly seasonal, served in a space that is intimate and energized all at once. A superb wine list celebrates the vast talents of Italy, and an astute, welcoming staff keeps everything flowing with ease.