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The city of Mons is reputed for its friendly welcome, which also sets the scene in this snug bolthole a few minutes from the Grand Place. At the Comptoir de Marie, it is glaringly obvious that people are here to enjoy good food simply. Chef Quentin Falciani, who works tirelessly beneath the watchful eye of owner Luc Broutard, crafts an Italian score prepared with premium produce that he treats reverently. The menu reads like a tribute to all things Italian, from the top-drawer cured meats such as Culatello di Zibello Pallavicina Antica to heritage dishes like cannelloni, osso bucco or homemade raviolis, stuffed with shredded shank of veal and a powerful gravy. The latter is flanked by perfectly cooked foie gras, which adds depth and intensity, as does the black truffle veal jus. The Comptoir de Marie is the quintessence of good food: no nonsense, down-to-earth, legible flavours enhanced by first-rate produce. It is also an establishment whose money-pleasure-quality ratio remains unbeatable – a must-try if you’re anyway near Mons!