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The cooking has never been better at this high-energy galley built out of mosaic tiles and cozy wood paneling. Inspired by the coastal traditions of Spain and Portugal, the menu is packed with winners. Indeed, this is a kitchen that isn’t afraid of flavor. A salad of pea shoots is deceptive in its sophistication thanks to roasted hazelnuts, aged goat cheese and a blizzard of freshly cracked black pepper. Marinated potatoes tango with thinly sliced onions and fried rock shrimp. Fish is a must; swing for the seabream cooked until the skin is crisp as a chip and then covered in sweet Habanada peppers. Whether you’re waiting to get in, sitting at a table or bar, or cooking, everyone is elbow to elbow, and all too happy to stay a little while longer.