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More fair than foul, this East Village spot is from the same folks behind the late Blanca and Roberta's. From the open kitchen and wood-burning oven to the exposed brick and glass chandeliers, this restaurant has a cozy charm. Its look may lean vintage, but its menu skews contemporary. The fire and ice dish, with house-made 'nduja topped with stracciatella and served with toasted bread bears an Italian influence, while roasted mushrooms in a rutabaga-based broth is soul satisfying. Pastas, like veal agnolotti with amaretto or spacatelli with aged squab, are always a hit. And for dessert, the sake lees cake with cubes of tender yet crispy cake finished with honeycomb and clotted cream is the stuff of sweet dreams.