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Tomiño Taberna Gallega is a treasure trove of delicious tapas from Northwestern Spain, located here on the border of Little Italy and Chinatown. To call it a tavern may be a misnomer, as the dining room is attractively decorated with handsome wood tables, ocean-blue banquettes and a skylight overhead. Head to the roomy bar for a more typical perch from which to enjoy the great Spanish art of small-plate dining.

The kitchen may offer some of the usual favorites, but the real emphasis is on Galician regional specialties. Start with croquetas, their golden shells rough and crumbly over a creamy béchamel filling studded with jamón or shellfish. Then move on to caldo Gallego—intensely flavored pork stew with collard greens and white beans.