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Settle in to your perch at one of the tables, or (preferably) at the engaging counter where you can watch each dish come together. If that doesn't have your taste buds tingling, the kitchen's concise number of unique items at a steal of a price will hit the spot. Persian cucumber kimchi with a spicy plum dressing, shiso and sesame seeds is a delight, while the aroma of pork bone broth that precedes the arrival of gochu ramyun brimming with curly noodles, bean sprouts and pickled cabbage is a veritable thesis on ace ingredients. Pyunche salad mingling sushi-grade amberjack is a simple yet delicious wonder. Not far behind is the surprising toro ssam bap, highlighting the eponymous fatty fish with scrambled egg, tobiko and toasted seaweed.