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Italian hospitality with a Pugliese accent is on display at Mercato, a rustic trattoria in the western midtown hinterlands. The space is country-chic, with distressed wood tables, soft, exposed bulbs and vintage signs. The atmosphere is inviting and the menu is inspired by the classic dishes of Puglia, the birthplace of owner Fabio Camardi.

First get a drink in your hand, then start with fave e cicoria, a straightforward purée of fava beans and garlicky chicory greens. A well-rounded Italian meal must have pasta, so be sure to indulge in the likes of orecchiette with broccoli rabe and garlic, enhanced by anchovies and breadcrumbs. For something deeply satisfying, try the fennel-dusted porchetta with a hearty side of potato and green cabbage mash.