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Few would expect to find some of the city’s best Sichuan food along a quiet street near Bryant Park right under the nose of Midtown office workers. But such is the case at this long-established haunt that has finally rebuilt and reopened after a terrible fire in 2018. Miraculously, the kitchen hasn’t missed a beat, and those who long for the tingly heat of Sichuan peppercorns and the burn of bright red chili oil will not leave disappointed. Thin, crispy scallion pancakes and plump pork dumplings in chili oil make for a fine start, before moving on to spicy hot and sour cellophane noodles and braised fish fillets with bean curd. Salt and pepper prawns are also worth an order. As a bonus, the remodeled space is an elegant upgrade from the original.