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Featuring a manifold of rooms including a sunken area with close-quartered tables and a mezzanine with gold leaf walls, it is Tori Shin’s enclosed counter that retains the X factor. Packed with a mix of expense account crowds and casual walk-ins, this labyrinth of a restaurant exudes a lively energy, as does its chefs who can be seen fanning charcoal over a sizzling grill. What emerges is a host of skewers best ordered as part of the omakase.

The kitchen’s focus is on such organically raised chicken parts as tenderloin with wasabi; boneless thighs with bell peppers; and smoky ribs with yuzu kosho. This worthy progression is then tailed by seaweed-seasoned sushi rice for a harmonizing feast. Shiso ice cream makes a fine denouement.