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What happens when alums from Estela and The Four Horsemen come together under one roof? Only good things. This little restaurant in Greenpoint has all the makings of a neighborhood essential, thanks to its relaxed staff, an impressively lengthy and thoughtful wine list, and food that goes far beyond the usual meat-and-cheese offerings of a bar. Boldy seasoned and perfectly pitched, the no-nonsense cooking is at once hearty and satisfying. Fried rabbit with ramp agrodolce is a meal on its own, but you’ll also want to order some thick toast piled on with mussels and pancetta and served in a knockout Calabrian chili butter. Any lingering appetites can finish off with a very shareable and very satisfying pan-roasted Berkshire pork chop.