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Respected veteran Chef Takatoshi Toshi has returned to his roots and taken over the reins to bring Novato locals hearty and affordable sushi. Don’t be surprised to see him behind the counter here, breaking down a whole salmon while making small talk with his neighbors. The space is simple, understated and quiet, which seems to match its quaint downtown location, set amid boutiques and restaurants.

Lunch combinations are an excellent deal, offering chirashi bowls as well as sushi and nigiri with miso soup. Come dinner, the affordable omakase selection unveils nigiri, salmon and tuna tastings. Bigger platters might arrive as lovely amalgamations of avocado and albacore rolls alongside ebi, yellowtail and cherry wood-smoked goldeneye snapper (kinmedai).