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The house spirit reigns supreme in this intimate fine dining restaurant with six tables and a confidential feel. Suffice to say, chef Arthur Dubois – who has clocked up experience in the restaurants of Jacques Maximin, Éric Frechon and Pierre Gagnaire, where he was sous-chef for several years – is in the business of the bespoke. Carefully selected ingredients, tried and tested know-how, impeccable technique: the chef is a dab hand at putting a new spin on classic cuisine. Indeed, the influence of his mentor on rue Balzac makes itself felt in his penchant for "satellite" variations on a theme, as seen in his langoustines "with three flavours" in a buttermilk sauce, or the red mullet with fresh seaweed and rockfish jus with foie gras.