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In the heart of this seaside resort where Louis XIV married the Infanta of Spain, Maria-Thérèse of Austria, it is a pleasure to step inside what is said to be the oldest building in town (16C). But there is nothing old about the menu served at the cosy, elegant restaurant that lies behind these high walls and mullioned windows. Basque chef Nicolas Borombo (from Bayonne), son and grandson of rugby players, set up shop here after clocking up experience in Paris, at the Hôtel Crillon with Dominique Bouchet and Jean-François Piège, and at the George V with Philippe Legendre. With a love for his region, he creates beautiful, original and refined cuisine that makes the most of regional ingredients.