A Mexico City superstar with the seafood-centric Contramar, Gabriela Cámara has brought her magic touch to this Civic Center hottie, where she serves similar food. Nothing is lost in translation: filleted black cod with red chile adobo is silky and smoky after a wood grilling in collard leaves, while Cámara’s famed tuna tostadas get a Bay Area sustainability update with ocean trout. And you won’t want to miss the griddled black bean sopes, which seem simple but sing with flavor.
Cala’s minimalist aesthetic matches that of Contramar, with vaulted, skylight-dotted ceilings, a planter box full of climbing vines and lots of light wood for a rustic-urban feel. Service can be spotty, but for a flavorful, unfussy meal, it’s quickly become a hot ticket.- MICHELIN guide inspectors