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The front windows are stacked with logs, dried fish hangs from the rafters and the dining room is scented with wood smoke, but lofty ceilings and a contemporary aura make Birdsong feel lumberjack-chic. While Chef Christopher Bleidorn prides himself on live-fire cooking and using every part of the animal, he’s still attuned to creature comforts, including a soothing color scheme, sleek earthenware, elegant stemware and a staff that's as sharp as a well-made axe. The funky 80s rock music in the background certainly helps preserve a laid-back vibe.

His cooking underlines the cuisine of the Pacific Northwest by way of a prix-fixe unveiling such delightful bites as seaweed dressed with fishbone vinegar; "fish and chips" comprised of halibut tartare and pommes souffle; a trout skin "sandwich" with roe; as well as "bacon and eggs" starring pork belly wrapped around egg yolk and caviar. The chef also flaunts immense skill with plates, like the Sonoma lamb served with grilled olives, followed by an enticing combo of California short grain rice with spring peas cooked in a broth of Parmesan bouillon.

Even desserts get their due here, like pine needle sorbet with pine pollen and fermented honey.