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This shoebox-sized pizzeria may reside in the far reaches of the Richmond, but it’s easily identifiable by the crowds hovering on the sidewalk to score a table. Once inside, you’ll be greeted by pizzaiolos throwing pies in the tiny exhibition kitchen—ask for a counter seat to get a better view.

The thin, chewy, blistered pizzettas each serve one, making it easy to share several varieties. Weekly specials utilize ingredients like seasonal produce, house-made sausage and fresh farm eggs, while standbys include a pie topped with wild arugula, creamy mascarpone and San Marzano tomato sauce. Whatever you do, arrive early: once the kitchen’s out of dough they close for the day, and the omnipresent lines mean the goods never last too long.