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This dim sum lounge with an old-school charm may look small from the outside, but there’s room for over 100 diners inside its cherry-red dining room—with dozens more hopefuls lined up on the street outside. The largely Chinese crowd attests to the authenticity of the food, which ranges from steamed pork buns and taro dumplings to chicken feet with peanuts and Peking duck. Whether it is a weekday or weekend, this stalwart is abuzz with old friends bonding over freshly steamed dumplings, slippery noodle rolls stuffed with sweet barbecue pork and crispy, golden pan-fried tofu. A pastry puff filled with creamy, rich durian and shaped like a swan, is a fitting finale.

If you’re hoping to skip out on the wait, go at dinner instead of lunch, or call for takeout.