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Brace yourself, Angelenos. Tony Xu (of Chengdu Taste fame) has a veritable hit on his hands with this young'un (and its queues attest to that). The menu is dedicated to noodle soups and a smattering of appetizers, but trust us when we say there is beauty in that restraint.

Prepare to dig in to these sinus-clearing broths filled with endless tangles of noodles. The zing of peppercorn and the one-two punch of ma la enhance every dish. Sichuan cold noodles hit the mouth with a sweet heat, while the ziwei beef featuring a red broth flecked with those same peppercorns and chili flakes has a sweet-and-sour bitterness that is positively addictive. One bowl is plenty but order more to allow your palate to oscillate between various tastes.