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In sun-kissed Santa Barbara right by the tony Montecito Inn, this convivial counter is out to make sushi on its own terms. Though the group counts at least six other locations in the US and Canada, the setup is largely the same: Guests start with a cocktail in the lobby before finding their names written in chalk at their seats. The chefs, always talkative and ready to have a good time, work in tandem to deliver creative combinations that go beyond the realm of traditional nigiri. The likes of brown sugar, pineapples, chili ponzu, olive oil and fried onions find their way onto frequently blowtorched slices of A5 wagyu, Japanese tuna and New Zealand salmon. Those who book the last seating of the day can stay longer and request more pieces.