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Now in its fifth decade of operation, this beloved family-owned fixture has never been more in-demand. Much of its current acclaim owes, no doubt, to second-generation Chef Justin Pichetrungsi, whose approach hits a sweet spot between minding tradition and walking his own boldly idiosyncratic path. This is amply demonstrated on freewheeling “Thai Taco Tuesdays,” a no-reservations event that draws lines around the block. For additional excitement, one weekend per month, a unique omakase experience is surely one of the city’s most coveted reservations. Whether sampling spot-on versions of Thai classics, or delving into more rarified fare, the warm service, memorable wine list and singularly buzzy atmosphere make for a one-of-a-kind experience.