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Prepare for a sensory overload the moment you set foot into Lakruwana—the Sri Lankan hot spot is covered from floor-to-ceiling in murals, sculptures, flags, and more. The kaleidoscope of textures and colors is a welcome sight in an otherwise downtrodden part of the borough, as is the energetic owner who drifts from table to table.

Those familiar with Indian food will love Lakruwana’s abundance of curries, green chili-spiked kothu roti, as well as refreshingly salty-and-sour lassi. But their flavorful fare is considerably spicier, packing heat into everything from fiery red chili lunu miris chutney to deviled chicken. Loaded with ginger and garlic, this stellar tomato-based chicken specialty comes with cooling raita and tangy vegetable curry.