The chef learned his tempura from a master versed in the old ways. The first tiger prawn is fried at just the right heat to bring out its aroma; the second is served rare to elicit sweetness. Conger eel is fragrantly fried with minimum sesame oil. Nakagawa’s trademark theory is that ‘tempura is a process of drying-out’, by which he means ingredients are steamed and grilled in their batter to remove moisture, bringing their flavour to the fore.