Ryujiro Nakamura’ open-hearted character keeps the mood bright in this vibrant, full of laughter restaurant. The fish is flavoursome, the staff youthful and energetic. Rice is seasoned with red vinegar made from sake lees to keep the focus on the tuna. The omakase is original in presentation yet respectful of the traditions taught by his mentor. It begins with nigiri sushi of medium-fatty tuna and ends with soup stock-flavoured thick omelette roll. A good beginning and an end are vital in all things.