Originality of approach is Hidenori Tadauchi’s strong suit. After being raised by parents who ran a sushi shop, he majored in Japanese cuisine, but his passion for Italian cooking and football persuaded him to travel to Italy, where he honed his modern creativity at restaurants there. Cold pasta with white-flesh fish is braced with kombu kelp, the influence of his father. Risotto of young ayu, served in early summer, imparts a Japanese sense of the seasons.