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In the heart of a magnificent hotel at an altitude of 2,345m, this high-flying establishment is well worth the climb. Josselin Jeanblanc has swapped his native Jura mountains for the Alps, devising meals that crescendo over the course of simple and inspired creations using premium ingredients sourced from all over France. Bresse chicken cooked two ways, the leg is slow roasted and grilled and the breast roasted in hazelnut bread and served with a vin jaune and morel sauce, while the dessert may star Savoie apples on wafer-thin pastry served with a Granny smith and Dauphiné verbena sorbet (by Sébastien Deléglise, Passion Dessert 2023). All bear witness to the chef’s consummate technical genius and determination to stand out from the usual luxury hotel restaurant crowd...