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An interesting modern concept that makes for a memorable dining experience. It all kicks off at 7.30pm when the guests for the evening arrive. At 7.45pm service begins with the first dish of the 17-course single set menu. In this trendy urban restaurant, diners sit on comfortable bar stools at the counter, from where they can watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. This creates a sociable and entertaining atmosphere, with proceedings running almost like a theatre performance. There is a sense of invention in this pleasingly balanced and pared-down French-Japanese crossover cuisine that draws on regional influences. Not only are there fine wines, but also great home-made juices. A word to the wise: be sure to take a stroll through the tranquil village before dinner.