The understated modernity of Vinke, which verges on the mysterious, is enhanced by a huge brass counter. Each dish showcases chef Gilles Demeere’s talents, demonstrating a modern culinary repertory of undiluted purity. Classics like sole meunière rub shoulders with more creative inventions, such as pink Steenvoorde pigeon served with a jus of the bones and a mousse made out of the liver and heart for extra depth and flavour. The chef’s generosity is further underscored by velvety mashed potato and thyme-flavoured green peas.