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Chef Nick Tamburo had big shoes to fill following the closure of longtime favorite, Redd Wood, but he’s made it look effortless. This space is as happening and easy-breezy as everyone remembers, with an open kitchen framed by white subway tiles, high ceilings, and a curing room filled with rows and rows of dry-aged ducks.
While waiting 45-minutes for the signature entrée, start with thin slivers of kampachi garnished with preserved perilla or swipe large corn and nori fritters through a cloud-like mousse of corn studded with trout roe. Wood-fired pizzas are a nod to the previous tenant. And for dessert, the dangerously comforting burnt cheesecake is a must, arriving with a top as black as the night and a center that's as airy and delicate as ever.