A neighborhood restaurant in its true sense, everything and everyone seems comfortable at this Italian-American institution. Delightful dishes set the stage for a festive evening, while frescoes of tranquil scenes adorn the coral walls of this unfussy dining room. Servers are affable, adept and even theatrical in their recitation of specials. Flavors are classic and robust, from eggplant rollatini stuffed with ricotta to the ravioli golosi filled with ground filet and veal, then topped with a sauce of mushrooms and sausage. Dentice rosso reveals red snapper set in a pool of brown butter and tarragon, but wait, there's a twist. Sliced peaches and lemon are then added to said sauce for a bit of sweet and sour. Tiramisu is easy to eat...and complete.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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