The Bronx is immensely proud of its heritage, but that doesn’t mean it resists change. In fact, this recruit fits in perfectly with the swiftly changing 'hood as it stands sentry at the base of a distinguished building on a prominent corner. The interior is sunny and welcoming with a gracious staff to boot; the menu is melting pot Central America featuring papusas from El Salvador, baleadas from Honduras and enchiladas from Mexico. Go for a side of cheese-the cuajada is a soft curd variety offering a taste of Nicaragua. Tacos, like the enchilada with a spicy pork concoction, are simple but gratifying; while the heartier, fork-tender oxtail floating in an intense sauce with a hint of sweetness embodies the kitchen's complexity of flavors.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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