In a neighborhood better known for seafood, this charming bistro breaks the mold with hearty plates of French food. The husband-wife team lures locals into a snug, dimly lit space with marvelous mahogany-hued onion soup finished with brandy and a sultry mound of Gruyère. Particular attention to the art of service shines through the dining room. A craving for classic Gallic dishes will surely be satisfied by cooking that is more solid than revelatory. Signatures include a tender roulade of chicken breast stuffed with spinach and mushrooms, served alongside haricot verts and fluffy, buttery mashed potatoes tucked with black olive for a bit of "wow!" For a finale, try the pineapple upside-down cake with a grilled ring of fruit and drizzle of caramel.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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