The trek to Red Hook is worth it once you get a taste of this Texas 'cue. Pitmaster Bill Durney is doing the Longhorn State proud with his smoked brisket that will rock your world. Some dishes, like the Korean sticky ribs, are laced with worldly influences, while old-time classics like banana pudding are done just right. Sausages snap and explode with juice and chili-spiced bite (each is sold by the plump quarter-pound link), and then there is the lamb belly. Piled high and dripping with glistening fat, it is equal parts intensely smoky and distinctly gamey. The warehouse-like space is clad in repurposed wood and furnished with communal picnic tables that lend an intimate and friendly vibe. Water Taxi is the easiest way here from Manhattan.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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