There’s little resembling the Chumley’s of old, save the name, door and framed book jackets of writers who apparently found their muse in a glass here. This famed watering hole, which had to shutter temporarily a decade ago after a chimney collapse, has risen from the proverbial ashes as a serious contender. Leather banquettes, French-oak tables and patterned wallpaper are long on looks, but rest assured, as it’s all about the (really good) food here. Dishes sound familiar-steak tartare and lobster rolls-but there's nothing ho-hum about this menu, which bears a French twist (bouillabaisse, we see you). Savory apple tart is a well-executed and creative starter, but it's the dry-aged burger topped with bone marrow that remains a much-ordered treasure.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors