Manhattan has classic Italian and new Italian, but not many thoughtful Italian restaurants. Tuscany native Rita Sodi is out to change that with this ristorante. She consciously selected every aspect of the design, including the linen napkins to the thick, striated glass windows that hide the modern space from the marauding groups of youngsters on Christopher Street. Inside this oasis, Negronis prep palates for al dente rigatoni and hearty, meat-focused dishes like the coniglio in porchetta. This exceptional rabbit preparation combines bacon-wrapped loin with a sweet wine- rosemary- and garlic-sauce. The herbal quality of such savoriness brings out the almost austere nature of the lean rabbit, showing how truly intuitive and innovative Italian cooking can be.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors