With their roll call of “fashionable” ingredients garnered from all corners of the globe, restaurant menus can sometimes look as though they’ve been put together by a promiscuous explorer rather than an inquisitive chef. But, not all of us always want loquat with our lunch or dashi with our dinner—sometimes we need something that evokes a sense of place and history and Wallsé provides just that. Those, however, who think Austrian food is all Wiener schnitzel and apple strudel should think again, because this cuisine is itself made up of a host of influences, stretching from Italy all the way to the Balkans. Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner and his kitchen also demonstrate how cuisines can evolve to respect contemporary tastes without compromising their integrity. So whilst there are plenty of classics on offer at all times, including quark spaetzle with succulent, tender rabbit, there are also lighter dishes like cod with squash and chanterelles. This two-roomed restaurant exudes a sense of romance, so if you're here on a date go full-on Viennese when it comes to dessert by sharing a Sachertorte. The vivid modern canvasses are also a welcome change from the anodyne art found in so many places.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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