Che fico (“what a fig”) is Italian slang for “How cool!” And the sharply dressed crowd at this good-looking spot is indeed very cool—but they give quite a fig about landing a highly coveted reservation. If you’re not a celebrity or tech mogul with an inside line, expect to wait in one. The balanced and beautiful array of cocktails, like a gently spicy banana milk punch, will help bide the time nicely. The vibe is chic, but this food is approachable with rotating pastas like the saffron spaghetti with 'nduja, quirky, compelling pizzas (try the pineapple, red onion and fermented chili number) and Roman-Jewish appetizers like the artistically plated grilled duck liver with matzo. Desserts are an absolute must: the coffee-blueberry pavlova may sound odd, but it's divine.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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